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Post by Deleted on Jul 31, 2018 0:51:12 GMT
the horror stories scare me, but I can't get a genuine one for my model any more.
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Post by mslo79 on Jul 31, 2018 5:41:38 GMT
Yes, I have and recently and it's not surprising you can't get the official one once the laptop is older as the laptop I got (which is a backup computer to my main desktop PC) is basically 10 years old (I only had it since Dec 2017 though as I got it used for $20-25) as it's a HP DV5-1002nr. in short... I got burned (not physically, just a crap battery) on one battery from Ebay and the other, which I ordered from Amazon, is better anyways since it's of higher capacity(it's physically bigger than the stock type of battery), seems okay at the moment as while I don't know exactly I would guess I probably have something in the ball park of 20 cycles or so on it. more details... The HP battery (it claims to be a official battery but I have my doubts) from Ebay I got in early Dec 2017 for $22 and that was defective right off the start because the battery was slightly swollen a bit after first charge and while it did act fine for a little while it was not long before I started noticing random power offs even though the battery claimed it still had a good amount of battery charge left. basically once it hit around 50% of power left it would start powering off randomly. basically the battery was shot and I moved on... ...so at that point I order one from Amazon for $22 in May 2018 (i.e. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077XRL7VH/ ; currently $24) )... which is rated @ 8800mAh but has a real capacity of a little over 8000mAh according to what Linux Mint tells me (it's not surprising to see it a bit lower as batteries do lose capacity as they age even from sitting on the shelf) and it must be legit given how long the battery runs under Mint Linux which is not as optimized as Windows is in terms of power consumption as if I put Windows 10 back onto it (as I registered a free copy of Windows 10 onto the device before that was no longer possible in mid-Jan 2018) I would not be surprised if I got another 1hours+ out of the run time which would be quite a bit considering I am probably in the ball park of a couple of hours of run time currently in Linux Mint v19. basically this battery is roughly double the capacity of stock batteries but watch out for fakes as you can usually tell if something is BS because some random batteries claim noticeably higher capacities than the stock battery but are physically the same size which is BS as if your going to noticeably increase the capacity the battery is going to have to be physically bigger to do it. but I kind of like it as it makes for a nice little stand somewhat as it lifts the back of the laptop up a bit to where the fan is not sitting close to the desk anymore. but everything functions perfectly fine on Linux Mint v19 unlike Windows 10 which has a slight issue in that the right side of the touchpad won't scroll websites like it's supposed to (it's basically a lack of driver support for it on Windows 10) where as on Linux it works perfectly fine (if I was using a mouse instead of the touchpad that would cure the Win10 issue as I would definitely do this if I used the laptop more heavily but I don't since I largely use my main desktop PC). but one thing I like about Linux is if your just mainly using it as a basic internet machine your probably better off with Mint over Windows as it's immune to a lot of the viruses etc that effect Windows. also, I even disabled he webcam on Linux Mint even though that does work as I tested it with the 'cheese' app which you can get from it's Software Manager (all free programs). but once I ran the commands to disable the webcam, just to confirm it worked, I loaded up the Cheese app and it error saying it cannot find a webcam etc. but you can easily reverse the process if you want to enable it. by default it works straight up. but given what I have read online I can likely extend the overall life of the battery by cycling it as close as I can between 25-85% as it's harder on the battery to fully charge it and drain it too low in general (especially avoid draining the battery below roughly 20% or so even though doing this occasionally is fine to keep things calibrated etc). but with that said... the instructions said to drain it to about 2-3% initially and then charge it to full so I pretty much did that and after that I have been trying to float between the 25-85% cycle as you basically have to guesstimate how long it takes to charge etc which on my laptop seems to be somewhere in the ball park of 1.5hrs to 1hr45min or so as I don't have the exact time but that's in the ball park as a full charge will take over 2hours for sure as I want to say it was around 2.5hours to a full charge from near empty. I realize that (the whole 25-85% cycling thing) can be a pain to do for some people so in their case I would just recommend re-charging once the laptop reaches around 25% of the battery left back to full as that's simple enough and will still extend overall battery life as letting the battery get to empty or nearly empty is much harder on the battery and will lower the overall cycle life of the battery. this even applies to cell phones or basically anything with a Lithium-ion (and variations) type of battery. with all of that said... unless you want to pay a arm and leg for a battery, which I don't think it's worth it on a older laptop, your basically forced to gamble a bit on whether the battery you will get will be a decent one or not. my advice, if you don't mind the larger battery size (as it's physically bigger than stock battery) get a higher capacity battery as I personally don't mind the added weight for noticeably longer run times. p.s. if you could actually find a legit genuine battery the quality is probably more reliable vs a generic one but like I say it's not really worth paying more than $30-ish tops for a laptop battery in general if you ask me, especially on something that's older. NOTE: if your wondering about what is this Linux Mint (i.e. www.linuxmint.com/ ) thing... you can test that out on your laptop (it's 100% free) by booting it from a USB thumb drive and play around with it as it will run well if you got 2GB of ram even though it only requires 1GB. my laptop has 3GB and RAM is never a issue for me. basically you can test it out without it installing anything to your computer. so if you don't like it, you can simply power off the laptop, remove the USB thumb drive, and power it back on and everything will be just like it is for you currently. but if you do like it, and decide to dump Windows, you can install it from the Install icon on the desktop. but backup any important files before installing it since I tend to prefer the drive wipe and install Linux option (which will use it's own ext4 file system instead of the typical NTFS in Windows) instead of a dual boot with Windows etc. the default browser on Mint is Firefox but you can install Chrome if you want to. I prefer Firefox over Chrome anyways.
NOTE: I just got a hold of a Intel 545s 128GB SSD for only $31.99 (currently it's back to $52.49 which is too expensive for that size of SSD when you can get the 256GB model for less than $20 more) which gave it new life as things load up much faster now as a SSD is the single biggest all around performance boosting upgrade you can give a aging laptop/desktop. that was easily the best quality SSD I have seen for around $30 (I got lucky and caught the deals roughly 2-3 hours before the sale ended) as usually your left with largely generic SSD's which I simply won't buy. but around $30 was the most I wanted to pay for a 120-128GB range SSD for this older laptop and what's great it is it's one of the better SATA based SSD's straight up and has a 5 year warranty and 72TB write rating. basically 72TB writes per 128GB of capacity. so in other words... 256GB = 144TB of writes, 512GB 288TB of writes etc. if your wondering what the hell that means... it means one could write 40GB of data to your SSD every single day (which is a lot) for 5 years straight and still only be about 73TB and those write ratings are usually conservative meaning that the drive will likely go well beyond that before actual failure occurs from writing data to it. basically the vast majority of people are not going to wear the drive out from writing data to it as even if someone did 20GB per day, which I still doubt they would consistently do this, that would mean AT LEAST a 10+ year life span out of the Intel 545s 128GB SSD and the higher capacity models, which are most common (i.e. 250GB-ish and higher are what people typically buy), will last that much longer. NOTE: this assumes the drives only fail from writing data to them as there can be other random things that fail in a SSD to but from the general word modern brand-name SSD's should easily last years (even though you might get a bad one in the batch once in a while like all other electronics are).
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Post by mslo79 on Aug 15, 2018 4:49:52 GMT
I should add this info... with the battery I do have for my HP DV5-1002nr laptop that works pretty well, I noticed that as it drains, once it drops below 16% of battery left (like instead of going from 16% to 15% to 14% and so on) it seems to instantly drop to about 3% battery.
my guess is it's part of lack of quality control with these generic batteries and is a flaw. but overall I can't complain too much given I get solid runtime and as a general guideline I don't drain the battery lower than 20-25% before re-charging anyways. so while the battery should not do that instant drop off in battery left percentage I am thankful it's at a low enough percentage and I got the battery for a reasonable price. so if it holds pretty steady like it currently functions for at least a couple of years or so I can't complain overall.
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