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Post by mslo79 on Sept 11, 2019 0:03:46 GMT
Prime etc. Hell, it appears things changed a bit since I last checked as while that $39.95 drive I mentioned is solid(i.e. cheap price/ample storage space), it appears one that's similar on your link you can get a 3TB for about $47 which is probably even better since it's not much more $ for another 1TB of storage and it appears it similar in the sense it only comes with a 1 year warranty, but chances are that won't be a problem.
so given that stuff... I would probably now say it's not worth buying anything smaller than the 2-3TB range HDD's and probably go with the 3TB since I can't see how someone would not go with getting 1TB more for only another $7-ish, assuming reliability of the 3TB is similar to the 2TB.
Thanks
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Post by mslo79 on Oct 10, 2019 5:32:59 GMT
Only a little over 3 months left now. so those who are still using Windows 7 it would be a good idea to change to Windows 10 (or a free Linux alternative) soon as you don't want to wait til the last second.
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Post by darkpast on Nov 24, 2019 5:23:05 GMT
just switch to windows 10, or buy a newer pc, anything running win 7 is likely very out dated. people sell win 10 pro licenses on reddit for like 10 bucks, they work fine and i have no issues
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Post by mslo79 on Nov 24, 2019 7:27:11 GMT
just switch to windows 10, or buy a newer pc, anything running win 7 is likely very out dated. people sell win 10 pro licenses on reddit for like 10 bucks, they work fine and i have no issues
You can still upgrade to Windows 10 for free (from Windows 7(assuming your Windows 7 copy is activated)) using the official 'Media Creation Tool' (i.e. www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 ) as I tested it earlier this year on Windows 7 PC's.
I just wiped the hard drives, installed Windows 7 Pro, activated it, and upgraded to Windows 10 Pro with the Media Creation Tool, once I confirmed it was activated, I then just clean installed Windows 10 (currently Windows 10 1909 is available (which was released not long ago now)) from scratch (i.e. delete all data on your main hard drive/boot drive and installs Windows 10 to it) and you simply skip over the activation part during the install and it will automatically activate once your booted into Windows 10 and are online. that's that, your good to go
but on the couple of older laptops I tested (which is what I mentioned above about testing out Windows 10 stuff), since they have pretty outdated CPU's, Linux Mint runs noticeably better on those for general use (since it does not have to waste CPU running anti-virus software and other junk) and that's what I suggest if your CPU is not up to a certain standard even though Windows 10 technically did work on them but is too slow even for basic use and not to mention, it's likely more secure for the average person to use online since many threats that effect Windows, won't effect Linux, since they are Windows specific threats (it can't stop everything like Phishing etc which is not OS specific and can potentially nail anyone, if they are not careful, regardless if they are using Windows or Linux or a smart phone etc).
at the very least... Linux Mint is a good option for people with older hardware who still want to get some decent usage out of their aging computer, especially if Windows 10 does not run all that well on it and since Windows 7 won't be safe to use in roughly 2 months, Linux is your only alternative if you want to keep using that same hardware for years to come. also, Linux runs well enough even with 1-2GB of RAM (especially 2GB+) which just about anyone reading this likely has a computer with AT LEAST that much of RAM as those who don't are likely on ancient hardware (i.e. probably well over 10 years old, maybe even 15 years+ or so).
p.s. I even have a older computer, a motherboard from 2006, and Linux Mint runs well enough on it as going to Windows 10 on that is not a option because certain things are not supported on the motherboard etc even though the CPU itself should work as it's 64bit. but even trying the 32bit version of Windows 10, while it did install and activate, it's pretty much shot as it's not stable (like it crashes etc as it's not reliable enough to use) even though Windows 7 is stable on it without any issues and so does Linux, but since Windows 7 is pretty much shot 2 months from now, Linux is the only way to make that old computer usable. hell, I even put in 4GB of RAM into it (4x 1GB) about a year or so ago for next to nothing (like $10-12 (which is a lot less than it was when I was considering upgrading it back in 2012 which was too expensive and not worth it at the time etc)) as prior to that it had 2GB of RAM.
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Post by mslo79 on Dec 10, 2019 23:27:37 GMT
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FeloniousMonk
New Member
IMDb player, 2001-2016
@feloniousmonk
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Post by FeloniousMonk on Dec 11, 2019 1:38:55 GMT
My 9 1/2 year-old Dell froze up during a slide show. Tried to reboot and only got a black screen and the cursor. Restarting was futile...it wouldn't reboot.Windows diagnostics (all 25 tests) were EXTREMELY slow...took ten hours. All tests were PASS. Still no reboot. Tech support couldn't fix. Only solution was to reinstall Windows 7, a foolish idea on such an old machine, despite it working well for years and having a lot of space on both hard drives. I refused to upgrade from 7 to 10...loved 7 and heard too many horror stories. Microsoft tried to hijack my computer in May of 2017 with a free download at 3 AM, but I stopped them. I was willing to take the risk of unsupported 7 until Microsoft replaced 10 with something else, or at worst, capitulate and buy a new machine with 10. But the crash in late November made the issue moot. Had to bite the bullet and buy a new tower and now I'm dealing with Windows 10. Lots of bells and whistles I don't need. All my data and files were transferred over, but it's been like being in a car wreck and having to learn how to walk and talk and speak English all over again. Good-bye, Windows 7, me loved you long time, Joe. Stuff happens. I am not an early adapter. Got my first flat-screen TV this year, still make and edit VHS tapes, and butter my toast after it pops out of a 1953 Sunbeam toaster. And it goes without saying that my wife and I share one phone, a Samsung flip-phone that barely texts. I don't mind. Most of the contacts I had on my phone are dead now. Monk
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Post by mslo79 on Dec 11, 2019 17:32:14 GMT
FeloniousMonk I got a solid alternative, assuming your 9 1/2 year old computer's hardware is fine... if you refuse Windows 10 and since Windows 7 support is ending a month from now you got one alternative left which is wipe the drive and install Linux to it, which is 100% free, as this will give you a secure internet machine online for years to come. I suggest installing Linux Mint v19.2-Cinnamon on your old computer as it will make it a solid internet machine once again (and it's interface should be familiar to those who are used to Windows machines). the current v19.x line of Linux Mint is supported til the year 2023 as each major release of Mint is supported 5 years. so... v18.x series is supported til 2021, v19.x series supported til 2023, and when v20.x is released it will be supported til 2025 and so on. NOTE: Linux Mint v19.3 is due out before Christmas. so you could wait until then to install it if you want. with all of that said... what CPU and how much RAM does this computer have? p.s. Linux Mint comes with Firefox browser by default but you can install Google Chrome to it if you want to. I personally like Firefox more even though I have Chrome installed I only use it as a backup browser. one last thing... if you decide to junk the old computer I suggest running a 'secure erase' on the hard drive of your old 9 1/2 year old Dell just to ensure no one else can recover any sensitive data on it you might have had on it over the years (just a quick reinstall of Windows, even if it installs clean (as in wipes the data on the drive and installs Windows from scratch), does NOT actually permanently delete all previous data on the hard drive!). after issuing a 'secure erase' to the drive it will permanently delete ALL data that was ever on it so no one can recover it. I use this for doing 'secure erase' on hard drives or SSD's... www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/parted_magic.html ; it's somewhat old as it's the last free version from the year 2013 but it still works fine. depending on the size of your drive it might take a while to finish as a 500GB hard drive I ran a secure erase on took about 1.5hours to complete. that should give you a rough idea on how long it takes. Damn, I thought I was late to the party when I upgrade from the old style TV's (25-27") to the more modern kind (43") in May 2016 (TV mfg date was Jan 2016) Yeah, I don't blame you as usually the sweet spot is getting something decent but at a decent price to as I never understood those who pay top dollar for technology when you can get something close enough to that level for a fraction the cost. but with that said... I think some people wait WAY to long before adopting stuff. Damn lol I have not really used VHS since pretty much early 2000's and VHS seems to be mostly 1990's tech since that's generally when it was at it's peak I suspect. hell, I heard DVD overtook VHS in rentals I think it was sometime in the year 2003. so if that's a ball park figure... I would imagine VHS was pretty much dead by the late 2000's tops. so call it a decade or so ago from today. p.s. about the only time I might break out the old VHS player is to transfer family videos etc on VHS tapes to DVD. Trust me, Windows 7 to Windows 10 is largely similar-ish in it's overall interface function and general use. sure, there might be a little bit of learning but if your good with Windows 7, Windows 10 should not be a issue overall. it's not like the disaster that happened from Windows 7 to Windows 8 as Windows 8's interface was horrible because it was not made for general desktop/laptop use but was suited for tablet junk. hell, I have used every OS (operating system) from Microsoft from Win v3.11 to date with Windows 8 being the exception as I attempted to use that in a virtual machine, just to see how it felt, and, like I was saying above, it's interface was a show stopper as doing basic stuff was a chore. so every other OS in that time frame from Microsoft I had on a main PC's at one point or another over the years.
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Post by mslo79 on Jan 9, 2020 8:32:06 GMT
A reminder... only 5 days left before Microsoft stops supporting Windows 7 with security updates!so if your still using Windows 7, upgrading (or changing to another operating system) is no longer a option if you want to stay secure online. so you basically have two options (both of which are free. so it won't cost you any $ assuming you got a 4-8GB USB thumb drive already))... 1)Linux (I suggest Linux Mint (i.e. linuxmint.com/ ) since it's probably the most Windows-like in it's overall interface even though there are quite a few options one can choose from with a Linux based OS (operating system) and they are all free) 2)Upgrade to Windows 10 using the official Media Creation Tool (i.e. www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 ) NOTE: if your computer hardware does not like Windows 10 for whatever reason then Linux is your only option if you want to safely continue to use it online. side note... my old desktop (the one that was my previous main computer) can't use Windows 10 on it at all so Linux is my only choice on that one and Linux Mint v19.3 (I am using the Xfce (even though Cinnamon is their most popular)) runs fine on it. p.s. even for those who like to really slack off and want to push Windows 7 to the limits and then some. I figure at the very least you should run your web browser (Chrome/Firefox) in a sandbox (i.e. www.sandboxie.com/ ; which is free). while on the topic of a sandbox... even for Linux users, while Linux is already pretty secure in it's default state, I suggest using a sandbox on your Chrome/Firefox browser called Firejail (download from here... sourceforge.net/projects/firejail/files/firejail/ ; for example if your using Linux Mint v19.3 (64bit) you download the "firejail_0.9.62_1_amd64.deb" file which is the newest one currently available). NOTE: you will have to manually update Firejail from time-to-time as it does not receive automatic updates like is more typical with other software installed by default etc. but basically a sandbox just makes it that much harder for a shady person to infect your system with a virus (and the like) because not only do they have to exploit your web browser, they would also have to escape the sandbox program to. should give you solid protection against any potential 'drive-by downloads'. also, another quick note on Firejail with Linux... anything you download to the 'Downloads' folder is persistent meaning the file will remain in the 'Downloads' folder even after you close your Firejail'ed browser. because if you try to save a file in any other location, even if it looks like it's saving, you won't be able to access it through your typical file browser since it's locked in the sandbox and will be automatically deleted once the browser closes. so basically if you download any files just make sure you store them in the 'Downloads' folder and to use them, don't run them from within the Firejaliled browser but browse to the 'Downloads' folder from your standard file browser, like it more typical for accessing files you want to use etc.
EDIT: I forgot to mention that when someone clean installs Linux Mint v19.3 it defaults to the v5.0 kernel (Mint v19.2 and earlier stayed with the v4.15 LTS(long term supported) kernels) which is only supported til Feb 2020 instead of the v4.15 kernel which is supported for the life of Linux Mint v19 series as it's a LTS (long term supported) kernel. so it's best to change to the v4.15 kernel right shortly after a clean installation of Mint v19.x so your computer will remain secure for the life of the Mint v19 series installation on your computer. here is how you do that...
go to 'Update Manager > View > Linux Kernels' and then click 4.15 and highlight the newest kernel (which at the time of this post is v4.15.0-74) and click the 'install'. once that completes, reboot your computer and hold the 'shift' key and it should take you to the grub boot menu and select advanced options (or the like) and tell it to boot from the v4.15.0-74 kernel and once Mint boots up (and everything appears to be okay) go back to the Linux Kernel page and UNINSTALL the v5.0 kernel. then from now on you will stay on the v4.15 kernel for the life of your Linux Mint v19 installation and will only receive updates for the v4.15 kernel.
NOTE: in general they suggest keeping two kernels from your kernel series as a safety precaution. say your on v4.15.0-74 and a newer kernel comes out and you upgrade to it and say your laptops WiFi kicks out, you can always revert to the previous kernel and uninstall the newest one that was causing the problem. with that said... this is unlikely to happen though. but as a general rule... keep two kernels installed and you can remove all others to free up storage space. but following what I said here, you can just use the v4.15.0-74 kernel for now and as updates come it will then install the update kernel and then you will have two kernels installed.
NOTE: I think the only reason they changed the default kernel to v5.0 in Mint v19.3 is so those with fairly new computers are less likely to have issues if they install Linux Mint since the kernel is newer and has more up-to-date hardware support. but if your computer is not quite recent, chances are high v4.15 kernel will work. but if for whatever reason v4.15 does not like your computer you will just have to switch to a newer kernel in Feb 2020 when v5.0 series is no longer supported as currently v5.3 is the newest one. but as a general rule... it's suggested to stick with v4.15 if your computer works fine with it since you won't have to worry about manually checking for newer kernels here and there as the previous one expires and no longer receives security updates.
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Post by mslo79 on Jan 15, 2020 5:46:33 GMT
A little article on the last update for Windows 7... www.neowin.net/news/heres-whats-new-in-the-final-updates-for-windows-7-and-windows-server-2008but anyone still on Windows 7 reading this... while your still technically safe at the moment, it won't be all that long before more security flaws in Windows 7 turn up that won't be fixed. so with that said, I guess for those who want to push things to THE limit, to guesstimate things, you might have another month (maybe a bit longer) before more security flaws turn up that cyber criminals will eventually exploit to get to those still using Windows 7. but I figure for those who want to push Windows 7 to the limit and a bit beyond... www.sandboxie.com/ (it's free Sandboxing software) ; is a good idea to run your browser in since it will help stop (or at least limit) the damage a drive-by download could do once security flaws are found in Windows 7 in the future. but with that said... anyone reading this still running Windows 7 needs to upgrade to Windows 10, which can still be done for free, or move to Linux (I suggest Linux Mint... linuxmint.com/ ; which is free) now-ish if you want to continue to be safe online! ; granted peoples web browsers will still be updated for a while which will help limit the risk for a while, but still, if you do anything on your computer that's sensitive it would be pretty much stupid to keep using Windows 7 for much longer.
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Post by Sarge on Jan 18, 2020 5:31:24 GMT
Just upgrade to W10 folks. Who moved my cheese.
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Post by mslo79 on Jan 18, 2020 11:36:51 GMT
SargeYeah, upgrading to Win10 is probably the best option for most people who are still on Windows 7. but if they got old hardware that works with Windows 7, but does not like Windows 10, then their only option is Linux if they want a secure PC for use online. but I figure unless their hardware is quite old, chances are it will work with Windows 10. like if someone has a computer made in the 2010's decade or newer, odds are Windows 10 will work. it might still work with hardware made in the 2000's but it's less certain (as the further back into the 2000's you go the less likely Windows 10 is to work) to where Linux might be worth seriously considering instead. because like I said my old computer's motherboard which I bought in March 2006 (which was a quality motherboard at that time) does not like Windows 10 but works perfect on Linux (and Windows 7 but since Windows 7 is a bad idea to use at this point in time, Linux is the only choice).
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Post by mslo79 on Jan 19, 2020 15:33:51 GMT
I took a screenshot of what people will probably see if they are still on Windows 7 as I had a Clonezilla image of Windows 7 I imaged March 13th 2019 and restored it to a hard drive that it was for on a old computer I got and then ran 'Windows Updates' and after everything was up to date I got the following screen... p.s. only reason I am going to keep a Clonezilla image of that Windows 7 is for the fairly rare occasion I need to transfer music files to a old Microsoft Zune 30GB digital audio player I got years ago as it appears that software does not like Windows 10 etc.
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Post by Prime etc. on Jan 21, 2020 6:38:42 GMT
My old rejected computer is out for the count. I don't use it because it has Windows 7 but
I was on a site where people were discussing whether an Adobe product could be used with Windows 7 when it said it could not-and people were saying it was just BS to get people to upgrade-so I wonder if anyone will continue to use Windows 7 despite the lack of upgrades.
My main (old) computer is upgraded. Bit nerve-wracking but worked out ok.
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Post by mslo79 on Jan 21, 2020 12:56:34 GMT
Prime etc. If you don't use it because it's got Windows 7, why not put something else on it so you can safely use it online? p.s. I would personally install Linux on it as then you got a secure machine online for doing stuff like banking etc and then use your other computers for anything else less sensitive. I definitely recommend using a password manager, especially for anything you care about online like your primary email (which you don't want someone else getting a hold of that) and banking etc. I am sure people will still continue to use it, at least for a while, as they did this with Windows XP when support for that ended in April 2014. but, like Windows XP, Windows 7's market share will likely fade quite a bit soon enough like Windows XP's did. I would imagine within the next year or two Windows 7's market share will take a big hit. but as of December 2019 here is the market share in terms of individual Microsoft OS's... Windows 10 = 47.65% (so about half of computers running Windows, have Windows 10 on them) Windows 7 = 32.74% (so about 1/3rd of Windows computers are using Windows 7 at this point in time) Windows 8 = 4-5% (Windows 8 = 0.69% ; Windows 8.1 = 4.09%) Windows XP = 2% Windows Vista = 0.16% (but I am not surprised here as damn near everyone who had Windows Vista shifted to Windows 7)
so anything Windows straight up is about 87% of the market share, which basically means people who have desktop/laptops nearly 9 out of 10 people are running Windows, which is not surprising. Mac and Linux make up the rest, so Macs are probably about 10% with Linux around 2%.
I assume you upgraded from Windows 7 to Windows 10? if so, I would suggest getting a hold of the Windows 10 1909 ISO and wiping the computer and installing it clean.
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Post by Prime etc. on Jan 21, 2020 18:41:01 GMT
Well I had thought about upgrading it, but since my laptop is more advanced-I figured it wasn't worth the effort since I would probably use the laptop if the main (old) computer needed servicing. I now have my email and regular web surfing on one computer.
As I said, right now I am not doing much graphics work so this computer (with windows 10) is good enough for everything. If I need more power for graphics I can use the laptop or my larger unit-I hardly use either right now, periodically turning them on and letting them upgrade. Both have windows 10.
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Post by mslo79 on Jan 22, 2020 6:31:13 GMT
Prime etc.I see. so in other words... the computer with Windows 7 on it, that your not using and is collecting dust, is sort of a 3rd option for you, correct? hell, if you got some free time I would put 'Linux Mint v19.3-Xfce' (it's the lightest of the three editions of Mint (although Cinnamon is their most popular)) on it to play around with and see what you think as the more outdated your hardware is the more of a performance difference you will notice, in a good way, vs Windows on it. because on under powered computers you can see Mint runs all around smoother and updates quicker etc. how much RAM do your computers have? ; if your 4GB+ your more than good enough even though 2GB will work well enough on Mint as it only requires 1GB of RAM but 2GB+ will give you a little room to work with. p.s. I basically have 4 total computers (two desktops, two laptops(both laptops have clearly under powered CPU's)), but one of the laptops I rarely use since it's the worst of the four I have overall (I got Linux Mint v19.2-Xfce on it but I have not updated it in a while etc(I might get around to putting v19.3-Xfce on it eventually etc)). but I keep the other three current as all three are running Linux Mint v19.3 but my main PC is using the Cinnamon edition and my backup computers (one laptop/one desktop) are running the Xfce version.
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Post by Prime etc. on Jan 22, 2020 7:23:52 GMT
Yeah it is just extra. It was not supposed to be such a sucky computer but my brother screwed up and didnt make me a graphics machine so it became the computer i used for email and web surfing. It was from around 2011 so it was pretty old.
My big kahuna computer is based on this (with slight changes-I think the storage capacity is different-forgot the changes--I have had it since summer 2018 but havent used it much yet since I havent got a camera yet and dont feel like doing graphics right now beyond the basic stuff I can do on any cheapo computer)
CPU: Intel i7-8700 (or i7-8700k) Graphics Card: GTX 1060 6GB Motherboard: ASUS Prime Z370-A RAM: 32 GB dual channel DDR4-2666 Storage 1: Samsung 960 EVO 500 GB M.2 SSD Storage 2: Toshiba 5TB HDD (or 6TB / 8TB) Power Supply: EVGA G3 750W CPU Cooler: Cryorig H5 Ultimate Case: Enthoo Luxe Operating System: Windows 10
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Post by mslo79 on Jan 22, 2020 8:30:56 GMT
Prime etc.Depending on how good or bad the CPU was at the time, it could still be more good than not today, especially for a basic internet machine and the like because I figure any decent-ish CPU in the 2010's decade is probably more towards good than not for general use today. but once you start going back into the 2000's decade much, things can start to decline quickly, even if the CPU was solid in it's day, as for example... the CPU in my previous main computer (AMD Athlon 64 X2 3600+(it appears it was released in about 2005 but I did not get it til some years later as originally in March 2006 I had a AMD Athlon 64 3500+ CPU(only single core) but upgraded to the 3600+(which is dual core) pretty much so I could run Mafia II (2010) video game)) was solid at one point but nowadays, while it still works well enough for a basic internet machine and the like, it's showing it's age for a while now. but it's a okay backup machine for basic tasks. Hard to complain overall your main computer easily tops my main computer (but it's not surprising as you bought yours in 2018 and my core components (motherboard/CPU/RAM) I had since May 2012). but about the only thing I got the edge on is storage space (assuming you don't have more in reserve ), although your main boot drive is faster than mine(Samsung 850 EVO 250GB SATA), and I would probably prefer my brand of PSU (Seasonic) over yours (I am not saying yours is bad or anything though as it might be strong to, especially after a quick look online (is this yours? ; www.newegg.com/evga-supernova-750-g3-220-g3-0750-x1-750w/p/N82E16817438093 ) it appears yours has a 10 year warranty(?); if so, obviously it has to be quality if they are confident in giving you a 10 year warranty on it, which I doubt anyone would complain with that level of warranty)) as my current PSU is the longest lasting one I ever owned to date (as pretty much everything I owned in the past would fail not all that long after the warranty was up which typically had 2-3 year warranties, which were more common not all that long ago where as nowadays it seems many are at least 5+ years or more) as it's 7 years and 2 months (it was warrantied for 5 years(which is the best warranty I have had on a PSU so far but this warranty ended Nov 2017)) and counting and I leave my computer on pretty much 24/7. so even if it fails soon, my opinion of Seasonic is still solid. but if I can get 10-ish years out of it, I definitely won't complain especially given the price range those PSU's are at, as prices seemed to have come down a bit vs not all that long ago(say earlier in the 2010's decade) as, unless one builds a fairly power hungry computer, one probably don't need a wattage PSU and if you keep the watts of the PSU a bit lower the prices are quite reasonable compared to what they once were fro around that 500watt-ish range (my Seasonic PSU on my main PC is 520watts). but I noticed, from a very quick look, for PSU's in the ball park of $50-60 or so, it seems 3 years is a bit more common on warranty and, given my past experience, I would generally avoid buying power supplies with less than a 5 year warranty regardless of brand (although back in the day... 3 years seemed to be about it and even then prices where fairly high as if that Newegg link is your PSU, I paid around that price for a PSU in March 2006 and it came with a 3 year warranty and it died in 2010 and the replacement I got, only lasted til Nov 2012 and that's when I said screw this and bought high quality and went with my current Seasonic with it's 5 year warranty and it's now the longest lasting PSU I have had to date (I have been using PC's since 1995)). hell, like I have said before... I have had more PSU's die on me than hard drives (3(PSU) vs 2(HDD)) and I would imagine in general hard drives would be more common to fail than PSU's off the top of my head. your GPU is better than mine (but we probably ain't too far apart here even though yours is definitely better) as I got a 1050 Ti 4GB (which I had since July 2017) and your CPU is clearly ahead to as I only got a i3-2120 (released in early 2011 but I had since May 2012). but with my current 1050 Ti 4GB, my CPU(i3-2120) is more of the problem than GPU for games. like I would upgrade it to a i5 range but unless I got a i5, along with a decent heatsink, for very cheap (say around $30-ish), it's simply not worth it and I am better off just putting that $ towards another build in the future which is probably what's going to happen as ill milk my current setup as far as I can and then when I do get around to upgrading ill get a rather large boost to overall system performance for minimal $ so about the only thing I might say is better on mine is I got more storage space and, warranties aside(yours seems to have a 10 year warranty(?) were as mine is 5 years), I prefer my brand of PSU (Seasonic) in general, even though your PSU's capable of outputting more watts. although assuming yours does have a 10 year warranty they must be pretty confident it's built to last. so in that regard I doubt you made a bad decision to where I can't fault your choice. but my GPU is the same brand as your PSU (i.e. EVGA). also, speaking of PSU's... at this point in time, unless one needs the higher watts etc, I tend to prefer to buy a PSU that's a bit more reasonably priced not that yours is unreasonable (assuming that one in the Newegg link above is yours), as I feel one get a bit more bang for their buck at around the $50-70 range. but at the same time I guess if you could get say something in the ball park of 13-15 years out of yours (assuming yours is warrantied for 10 years), it's not like you can really make a bad choice even at roughly $100-130. but at the same time if I can get say roughly 7-8 years out of say a Seasonic one with a 5 year warranty for around $60, short of having to potentially replace it a bit sooner, it might be the overall better choice if one wants to save a bit of $ up front. but if your the type who prefers to buy it once and have it last a long time (say 10-15 years), then it would be hard to fault your choice.
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Post by Prime etc. on Jan 22, 2020 8:47:14 GMT
I know there are a few minor changes in the specs. That was the recommended ones--it's great for Zbrush rendering. I have yet to try it with video but I know it renders graphics much quicker than my old ones. It is supposed to handle 4k editing well enough. I spent a lot on it because my last computers were terrible for rendering and motion preview. But I cant do much until I get a camera and I need global shutter or a rolling shutter reading of under 5 milliseconds. But chances are such a camera would be in the 5k or 6k resolution range--which is fine IF I can shoot at 4k or scale down. But I am waiting because the computers drained my money and if I buy a camera it has to be a keeper.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2020 14:53:07 GMT
I haven't updated my Windows 7 pc in 5 years.
I disabled all Windows Update and UAC nag screens and I'm running an anti-malware, anti-virus and firewall program. I haven't had a problem in ages and it's still running like a dream. I can only laugh at people who keep getting problems with these forced windows 10 updates. At least I'm the one who's in control with Windows 7.
People who say your computer is going to explode if you don't upgrade to 10 immediately are full of shit and don't know what the hell they're talking about. They are drinking the Microsoft kool-aid. Run a good anti-virus and anti-malware and nothing will happen.
I'll probably update to Windows 8.1 first so I don't have to force update every time Microsoft thinks I should.
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